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First Day on the Mara
Today would mark our first full day exploring Kenya’s Masai Mara National Reserve. It’s relatively small compared to other African parks, but still an impressive 580 square miles. Famous for its large cats and impressive herds, the Mara is a photographer’s paradise. If I wasn’t already in heaven I would soon be closer. Filming on the Mara was a dream come true…
Staying at Ilkeliani was a lot different than Elsamere on Lake Naivasha. For one you are in a tent. The sounds of Africa seem to come even more alive. The hyenas were exceptionally loud. Whoop. Whoop. Whoop! You could hear them across the river and to my left.
One of the best times to view wildlife is in the early morning. So it was no wonder we were in are safari vehicles at 6:15 a.m. AIS (as in seat). Approaching the giant gate I was overwhelmed with so much excitement. All the months, days, hours, and minutes counting…I was finally here. I had made it to the Masai Mara.
Seconds after entering the reserve we came across our first animals. These brown antelope are called Topi.
Soil-horning is a common occurrence in males. By rubbing their horns in the mud, it makes the horns look more impressive.
We even saw a mother and her calf. Female Topi are noted for being extremely protective mothers.
Everyone’s goal when you enter the Mara is to find “The Big Five.” This term originates from many years ago when white hunters came to Africa in search of the most dangerous and difficult animals to hunt. It is comprised of the lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo, and rhino. Just minutes in we were able to check one off our list! This buffalo was lying right by the side of the road.
If you know me then you know I am obsessed with hyenas! This was my first glimpse of a wild hyena. Note the exceptionally tall red oat grass. This made it difficult to get a good shot.
You cannot watch an African Documentary without seeing one of these guys! Thomson’s Gazelles or Tommies are a lot smaller in person.
This is a Kori Bustard and her chick.
Can you see my excitement? I was on cloud nine spotting African wildlife.
Making their way closer and closer to our vehicle was a small family group of African Elephants.
There is something about seeing a wild elephant that words cannot explain. The Mara is one of the last few places on earth you can still see healthy populations.
This young calf will stay with its mother for several years.
With two of the “Big Five” successfully checked off our list, we off once again to try to find the other three.
The Big Five wasn’t the only thing we were after. Birds of Prey like this Lappet-faced Vulture were also on our list.
Due to poisoning, habitat loss, and increased civilization, vulture numbers in the Mara have plummeted by more than 60%.
This Lilac-breasted Roller has to be one of the most beautiful birds I’ve ever seen.
One of the few times you can get out of your vehicle is when you stop for breakfast or lunch. This gave me a great opportunity to film in the tall red oat grass. I felt as if I was standing in the middle of a wheat field in Kansas.
Minutes after breakfast, our driver spotted this lone hippo making its way to the river. It is unusual to see hippos far from water during the day and this one happened to be limping.
We stopped at a particular point in the Talek River to observe a pod of hippos.
This large bull had to have been over 6,000lbs.
Once again I was on cloud nine filming!
Near noon we found our first wild cat. This cheetah was escaping the rising afternoon temperatures. What you don’t see are five to six safari vehicles full of tourists snapping photos. The majority of animals in the Masai Mara are habituated to vehicles. Without tourists bringing in income, the Mara’s biodiversity would be lost forever.
If anything I was determined to see a leopard in the Mara. They are extremely elusive and with the exception of the rhino, the most difficult animal to see. There is a leopard named “Olive” that is famous in the Mara for being comfortable around vehicles. Here we are scanning her territory.
Ironically enough there is an airstrip located right in the middle of Olive’s territory.
Talk about a dangerous road block! Buffalo are extremely aggressive animals and are equipped with 48 inch long horns.
Everyone in the Mara was on the lookout for lions or “Simba.” The Mara has one of the highest lion densities in Africa and not seeing one is bad luck. But where in the world were they? The tall oat grass didn’t help either.
This was a real treat: Spotting an Eland. This is East Africa’s largest and slowest antelope species. They rarely come near vehicles and fear humans.
Here’s my bird! The Secretary Bird is one of the only Birds of Prey that hunt terrestrially.
We were lucky enough to run into another group of elephants. They flap their ears back in forth to keep cool.
Due to poaching, elephant populations have plummeted by more than 80% since 1981.
As the sun set and the temperatures began to cool, we spotted three Bat-Eared foxes. Oddly enough, insects make up the majority of their diet.
As I watched an elephant graze in the dwindling daylight, we headed back to camp. We didn’t find any lions or leopards but we were not giving up hope. We still had a full day left in the Mara. What I didn’t know at the time was that the next day would change my life forever… ***To watch the footage visit this link: http://www.kivitv.com/goodmorninglive/146982695.html
Destination: Kenya’s Masai Mara
There are certain experiences in life one dreams of doing. As long as I can remember I’ve always dreamed of going on a true African Safari. The type of safari you see in countless nature documentaries. The type of safari where you see animals big and small interacting within the environment as they have for thousands of years. Truth is there are very few places left in Africa where you can experience this. The whole continent is experiencing a population explosion like no other place on earth. Animals and their habitat are disappearing fast. Kenya’s Masai Mara is one of the last few places where you can still go and experience a true safari, but even its future is uncertain…
We departed early in the morning for the 6 ½ hour journey to the Mara. Honestly, leaving Elsamere on Lake Naivasha was bittersweet. On one hand I was so excited to leave for the Mara, but on the other I was extremely sad leaving behind the grateful staff and experiences we all shared there.
The drive was quite different than the one to Naivasha. Halfway through you hit a dirt road filled with giant potholes (I can say though I enjoyed the bumpy ride). The sad part about this though is that this was once protected and part of the Mara. Unfortunately now it has been taken over by humans and their livestock.
This picture is for all you birders out there! We saw quite an array of avian friends along the way.
I felt as if I was driving down a back country road in Idaho. The scenery at a first glance was surprisingly similar.
And there it was: My first real glimpse of the Masai Mara. I was speechless and completely overwhelmed at the same time. It was one of the most beautiful moments of my life.
Notice those brown dots? As we drove closer and closer to the Mara we realized how the land surrounding the reserve had been completely taken over by livestock. The grass was short and the land eroded from all the invasive residents. Livestock overgraze the plains and prevent native herbivores from flourishing there.
Just outside the Mara near our camp is a town called Talek. The town is comprised of run-down colorful buildings, stray dogs, and people. You can completely understand now why there is human and animal conflict in and around the Mara. (Courtesy of africatravelresource.com)
The urban development in Talek is uncontrolled and its population is at an all-time high. (Courtesy of Martina Zucchini)
After traveling through Talek we reached the gate which marks the entrance of our camp Ilkeliani. (Courtesy of africatravelresource.com)
Unlike our camp at Lake Naivasha, Ilkeliani had tents spread out around the camp. Walking to my tent I had no idea of what to expect…
My jaw dropped! This is where I would be staying for the next three nights in Africa! I couldn’t believe it. Complete with a bathroom and warm running water, Ilkeliani was paradise.
What was so incredible about Ilkeliani was the location. Our tent was located right on the bank of the Talek River and right across it was the Masai Mara.
Less than 5 minutes in we had our first encounter with a local resident. This is a Silvery-cheeked Hornbill.
Ilkeliani has an observation deck overlooking the Mara.
And what a view it was. Words can’t even explain how I felt at this very moment. All the years of dreaming, all the months of anticipation, I just could not believe that I had finally made it.
We had a pretty packed schedule. An hour after arriving we were scheduled to visit a local Maasai Village. This was the first time I had ever been able to ride in an open-air safari vehicle. Can you see my excitement?
At first I think the Maasai were a little scared of my crazy hair!
They greeted us with a fantastic song and dance. Click the link to see more http://www.kivitv.com/goodmorninglive/144625515.html
The Maasai are extremely resourceful. They can make fire with only sticks and cow dung.
They live in huts made of kneaded cow dung, sticks, and mud.
Here I am pictured with a Maasai Warrior outside his home.
At the end of our tour the women and children had tables full of authentic Maasai bracelets, necklaces, spoons, and spears for sale.
3,250 shillings well spent! What a way to end another day in Africa. A special thanks goes out to the Maasai for allowing us to visit their village.
Hell’s Gate National Park
The very next day we left the familiarity of the lake and departed for one of Kenya’s most spectacular areas for viewing wildlife: Hell’s Gate National Park. It is the only park in Kenya where you can walk on foot. This put a twist on the “African Safari” experience and allowed me to see Africa on a whole new level…
On the eve of our adventure to Hell’s Gate I remember constantly looking out my window and thinking the bushes in front of our cabin was a hippo. There is something about African nights that develop fear in us. For it wasn’t that long ago when we were the ones being predated on by lions, hyenas, and other extinct fauna.
To my surprise Hell’s Gate was located just minutes from camp. When we arrived we were instructed to walk until we saw a very large, distinguishable rock….
And there it was! This large Kopje or rock outcrop is the most famous rock in Africa.
It was this real-life landmark that inspired the filmmakers of Disney’s Lion King to create the Pride Rock seen in the movie. (Photo courtesy of Disney)
Under a closer examination you can actually see a bicycle hanging from one of its ledges. Can you find it?
Along with cycling, Hell’s Gate is a very popular place for rock climbing. Even though this sounds environmentally friendly, it has had devastating effects on the Birds of Prey that use these cliffs for nesting. It has nearly wiped out all of its resident vulture populations.
Here I am pictured with Dr. Munir Virani. He is the Africa Programs Director for the Peregrine Fund and served as mentor to me throughout my stay in Africa. It is people like Munir, behind-the-scenes, that made everything possible for me to visit Africa. To check out our interview click this link: http://www.kivitv.com/goodmorninglive/143638796.html
Hell’s Gate is divided into two parts: The upper and lower gorge. Walking through the upper gorge you really get a sense of how beautiful the park is.
It was herbivores galore! The park is home to zebra, eland, Thomson’s gazelle, warthogs, and African buffalo.
This poor zebra had been caught in a poacher’s snare. Even though Hell’s Gate National Park is protected land, it does not make it immune to poachers.
These critters were quite numerous! Here is a warthog crossing the road just a few feet in front of us.
This was absolutely fantastic! We were able to capture a herd of giraffe and several other species grazing together. Make sure to check out the complete upper gorge segment here: http://www.kivitv.com/goodmorninglive/141812843.html
Africa has a strong British influence, so it was no wonder that we stopped to take a break in the middle of the afternoon for tea time. It took quite awhile for me to get used to having a hot beverage during the heat of the day!
After tea we departed for the lower gorge.
And what a different contrast it was compared to the upper gorge. The scenery was breathtaking.
We could not have navigated properly without our guide Joseph.
He helped us during the strenuous climb.
It’s no wonder the lower gorge is home to leopards. The fallen trees, vegetation, and caves serve as perfect habitat.
The natural water features were spectacular.
The lower gorge’s unique landscape has been the backdrop for several movies including Tomb Raider.
After a few hours of walking the gorge we came to dead end known as the “Devil’s Bedroom.”
Ironically enough we found a Brown House Snake near one of the walls in the bedroom.
Our final climb out of the lower gorge gave us breathtaking views.
What a fantastic way to end yet another day in Africa. To watch footage of the lower gorge click this link: http://www.kivitv.com/goodmorninglive/142619926.html
The Lost World: A visit to Crescent Island
The first day on the lake was incredible. It was everything and more of what I imagined Lake Naivasha was like. How in the world was the second day on the lake going to top that? I would soon find out. We were going to be transferred into what I can only describe as a “Lost World” full of animals unlike I’ve ever seen before…
Early mornings are the norm here in Africa. To wake up you can either jump in the cold shower fed by the lake itself or try to chug as much instant coffee as you can. Both worked for me! I also have to note on how incredible the nights were in Africa. The eerie sounds of the whooping hyenas and the distress calls from baboons can convince even the bravest to stay in their cabins.
Our destination was Crescent Island, a peninsula on the Eastern side of Lake Naivasha. Here there is a game sanctuary that is home to more animals per acre than any other park in Kenya.
We weren’t going anywhere if the water hyacinth had anything to do with it. This invasive plant species has had devastating effects on the local flora and fauna, not to mention the boats! We were stuck for an hour in huge (surpisingly heavy) masses of hyacinths. With the help of our experienced driver Duncan and Dr. Bechard we finally made it out into the lake!
The second day on the lake proved to be nothing like the first. We successfully baited three African Fish Eagles!
As the eagle takes off with its catch you can see behind it on the shores of the lake the increased civilization and a flower farming plant. Both have had drastic effects on the lake and its inhabitants. More recently, the flower farming industry has taken over. It’s a multi-million dollar industry that negatively effects the lake by increasing pollution and over exploiting its resources.
As our journey to Crescent Island was approaching our boat suddenly slowed down near a very famous residence. This property was once home to wildlife filmmakers Alan and Joan Root. Sadly Joan was murdered in this home on January 13, 2006. As I’ve mentioned in previous blogs, conversationalists like Joan are not always welcomed here in opened arms. Many are frowned upon because conserving wildlife conflicts with local human interest and the flower farming industry.
Hippos did not disappoint that day. Matter of fact we were successfully charged by two! As docile as they look they actually kill 4-6 people a year in Lake Naivasha. They literally can bite a canoe in half and most fishermen don’t stand a chance with their 20 inch long canines.
Lake Naivasha is a bird lover’s paradise! These Grey-crowned Cranes happened to be my favorite.
And there it was: My first glimpse of Crescent Island. This 400 acre preserve is home to over a 1,000 animals including zebra, wildebeest, gazelles, giraffe, and buffalo. Surprisingly there are no resident predators that live on the island. Hyenas will come and hunt during the night but have no dens on the preserve.
Crescent Island provides perfect habitat for Waterbuck. These medium-sized antelope are always found near a steady supply of water. Fun Fact: It is very common to see many without a full set of horns.
This island reminded me of a “Lost World” teeming with wildlife. It is no wonder why many documentaries are filmed here due to the large resident herds.
I’m so happy we were in the boat for this one! Buffalo are extremely aggressive and (even though in this picture you can’t see it) they had a young calf which makes these animals even more on edge.
As much as I didn’t want to, I said goodbye to Crescent Island and all of its creatures and departed for an incredible opportunity to speak with some local Naivasha school children.
We arrived at a local primary school where Dr. Munir Virani arranged for us to speak. The task was to try to convey the message of how important it was to conserve Lake Naivasha and all of its residents.
And what a success it was. Not only did we convey the message, we rocked it! I cannot tell you how much fun it was to entertain the class. I’ve been presenting shows for over a decade but this one program to this day has stuck out in my mind. What an incredible opportunity to speak to local children about how important it was to keep Africa beautiful. It was something I will never forget.
As we descended back to the Elsamere Field Study Centre we said goodbye to yet another incredible day in Africa. Our time at Lake Naivasha was slowing dwindling; never in my life has time gone by so fast. I remember talking to my good friend Teresa asking her advice on how to slow it down. She said these words: “Live in the moment.” And that exactly what I did.****
To check out the TV segment for this day click this link http://www.kivitv.com/goodmorninglive/140863453.html